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Uzbekistan:
Traditions as the Basis for Business
Traditions as the Basis for Business
The Uzbek embroidery has always been one of few forms of arts, where women could show their creativity and create their own narrative. A whole embroidery set was prepared for girls' dowry. But today Uzbek embroidery is being reconsidered: domestic handicraft has turned into women's entrepreneurship, articles are being made not for brides, but for tourists, patterns are tailored to the needs of a modern customer.
Photo courtesy of Zarina Atayeva
22-year-old Zarina Atayeva is the descendant of craftswomen, who makes wonderful things by means of a crochet, needle and threads.
"My grandmother and mother have taught me and my sister Vazira to do Uzbek kashta (embroidery – author's note). We have been doing this since we remember ourselves. Vazira in her 19 took part in various contests and exhibitions and employed nearly 30 peers."
According to her, there are two kinds of embroidery: crochet, a more neat and fine work, and needle, a larger, less neat. The Atayevs sisters embroider on pure silk, adras (50 per cent of silk and 50 per cent of cotton), and cotton. Embroidered suzane panels, bedcovers, pillowcases, tablecloths, curtains, dresses, wallets, and other interior items and clothing items are sold in their shop.
"My grandmother and mother have taught me and my sister Vazira to do Uzbek kashta (embroidery – author's note). We have been doing this since we remember ourselves. Vazira in her 19 took part in various contests and exhibitions and employed nearly 30 peers."
According to her, there are two kinds of embroidery: crochet, a more neat and fine work, and needle, a larger, less neat. The Atayevs sisters embroider on pure silk, adras (50 per cent of silk and 50 per cent of cotton), and cotton. Embroidered suzane panels, bedcovers, pillowcases, tablecloths, curtains, dresses, wallets, and other interior items and clothing items are sold in their shop.
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"One craftswoman sews one suzane for one month, and if two more craftswomen join her, they can do it for 15-20 days. A silk suzane costs nearly 600 dollars, and the embroidered panel made of viscose threads on the adras base costs nearly 200-280 dollars. The silk embroidery on the adras base costs 300-400 dollars."
The history of national patterns has developed over the centuries and every region has had their peculiarities in the performance technique, colour scheme and shape, said Malika Kuziyeva, Tashkent-based specialist in historical costumes. However, it is impossible to identify the date of appearance of Uzbek national patterns.
"National patterns have originated from primitive zoomorphic and plant graphic patterns taken from the nature. For example, the sun, the pomegranate (circles), wavy lines (water, plants), animals' horns, flower buds. Later on, these patterns have started to evolve, improve and be complemented," she said.
National patterns are directly related to the traditions and customs.
"National patterns have originated from primitive zoomorphic and plant graphic patterns taken from the nature. For example, the sun, the pomegranate (circles), wavy lines (water, plants), animals' horns, flower buds. Later on, these patterns have started to evolve, improve and be complemented," she said.
National patterns are directly related to the traditions and customs.
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"These are historical and cultural peculiarities of life and household of the people. For example, the image of a pomegranate symbolises fertility and longevity. The pepper is the charm against evil eye, while horns are the symbol of courage."
Photo courtesy of Gulmira Islamova
The key motifs of the Nurata embroidery are the pomegranate flower, the fruit of an almond, and the pepper. Despite its small size, the town of Nurata located in the deserts of Kyzylkum plays its role in the world of Uzbek embroidery.
According to Gulmira Islamova, a 38-year-old entrepreneur and winner of the state award 'Shukhrat', 30-40 years ago the religious complex 'Chashma' and the eponymous spring (one of the most significant water bodies of Central Asia with the pre-Arab history – author's note ) were one of the most visited locations in the region. Back then, tourists admired local embroiderers and the fame of the Nurata embroidery has spread beyond Uzbekistan.
According to Gulmira Islamova, a 38-year-old entrepreneur and winner of the state award 'Shukhrat', 30-40 years ago the religious complex 'Chashma' and the eponymous spring (one of the most significant water bodies of Central Asia with the pre-Arab history – author's note ) were one of the most visited locations in the region. Back then, tourists admired local embroiderers and the fame of the Nurata embroidery has spread beyond Uzbekistan.
But there was no communication with the Nurata-based craftswomen then (even now internet in Nurata is very slow) and foreigners wanted to buy embroidery in Tashkent and Samarkand. Merchants have learned about the big embroidery school in this small town and contacted the mother of Gulmira Islamova.
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"My mother refused to sell old suzane, which were inherited from my grandmother and great-grandmother because there were no ancient specimens of local embroidery left in Nurata as they all were relocated to foreign museums. But my mother offered to merchants to sew new specimens. The deadlines were short and she called all the women in the makhalla to help her out and this is how the Nurata-based craftswomen started to receive orders."
Craftswomen of Nurata. Photo courtesy of Gulmira Islamova
Today Gulmira is one of the first businesswomen of Nurata. She has not only launched large-scale production of embroidery, in terms of manual work, but also won the local competition of start-ups and received 50 million sum (5 thousand dollars), and started to export her products.
"Our business is peculiar because it involves all members of our family, even men. I manage all stages of production, do marketing and sales via our website suzanishop.uz. My brother Sherali is an artist and he draws patterns on fabrics and works in collaboration with other designers. My sister sews and teaches other girls, while my brother Nurali dyes silk threads and makes viscose threads. We have employed women from low-income families, and create 100 to 200 articles per month," Gulmira said.
"Our business is peculiar because it involves all members of our family, even men. I manage all stages of production, do marketing and sales via our website suzanishop.uz. My brother Sherali is an artist and he draws patterns on fabrics and works in collaboration with other designers. My sister sews and teaches other girls, while my brother Nurali dyes silk threads and makes viscose threads. We have employed women from low-income families, and create 100 to 200 articles per month," Gulmira said.
There are few tourists in Nurata, unlike Bukhara and Samarkand. So, the young woman actively promotes the articles under the Suzani by Gulmira brand on the internet. Her main customers are from Romania, Qatar, Türkiye, Switzerland, Hong Kong and Emirates.
According to the entrepreneur, export procedures must be eased to preserve the artistic crafts of Uzbekistan. Uzbek embroidery is difficult to export because of the requirement to attach a big package of documents for customs control: declaration, photos of every item, certificates issued by the ministry of culture, payments, which implies significant costs for the entrepreneur.
According to the entrepreneur, export procedures must be eased to preserve the artistic crafts of Uzbekistan. Uzbek embroidery is difficult to export because of the requirement to attach a big package of documents for customs control: declaration, photos of every item, certificates issued by the ministry of culture, payments, which implies significant costs for the entrepreneur.
Authors:
Louisa Atabaeva
Elina Beknazarova
Elina Beknazarova
Editors:
Natalia Lee
Lola Olimova
Lola Olimova
Layout:
Natalia Lee
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