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Tajikistan:
Reviving National Motifs
Reviving National Motifs
Elaborate ornaments of the Tajik national clothing have rich thousand-year history. According to culture expert Dzhonibek Asroriyon, every pattern used in the Tajik national clothing was symbolic and had their meaning.
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"For example, the ornament of the sun represented the light and brightness and was rooted in Mithraism (religion of the Ancient Iran, Ancient India and other countries of the Orient that emerged in last centuries before Christ and was based on the cult of Mithras – Editor's note) and therefore the pattern was used in chakan dresses and represented the sun, which brought much love to the household. And the pomegranate flower was the symbol of a family with many children and prosperity in the house, and was mandatory in wedding attire embroidery. The white-coloured patterns were the symbol of love between bride and groom, and also represented special affection of their owners."
Chakan is one of the techniques of national embroidery, gulduzi. It has prevailed for hundreds of years among women living in mountainous regions of Tajikistan.
Chakan also refers to a wide dress decorated with hand embroidery, made of natural material – silk or cotton. It is worn mainly in the southern part of Tajikistan and made of silk or cotton fabric.
Gulduzi is a kind of folk ornamental art, namely embroidery of patterns on fabric. It is embroidery by a needle and a crochet with cotton, wool, silk silver and golden threads, as well as beads, precious gems, coins, pearls, etc.
Photo – a woman in chakan.
Chakan also refers to a wide dress decorated with hand embroidery, made of natural material – silk or cotton. It is worn mainly in the southern part of Tajikistan and made of silk or cotton fabric.
Gulduzi is a kind of folk ornamental art, namely embroidery of patterns on fabric. It is embroidery by a needle and a crochet with cotton, wool, silk silver and golden threads, as well as beads, precious gems, coins, pearls, etc.
Photo – a woman in chakan.
Atlas and adras fabrics are often used in the traditional Tajik clothing.
Adras is the fabric weaved by hand, which contains silk and cotton threads. Adras is mainly a colourfully decorated fabric; another name of it is royal. Adras is woven the same at any place. The pattern is the only thing that differentiates fabrics made in various locations of Tajikistan.
Atlas is one of the kinds of silk or half-silk fabric. Silk atlas is mainly used for women's dresses, and half-silk is used for traditional blankets, mattresses, and other household items.
Adras is the fabric weaved by hand, which contains silk and cotton threads. Adras is mainly a colourfully decorated fabric; another name of it is royal. Adras is woven the same at any place. The pattern is the only thing that differentiates fabrics made in various locations of Tajikistan.
Atlas is one of the kinds of silk or half-silk fabric. Silk atlas is mainly used for women's dresses, and half-silk is used for traditional blankets, mattresses, and other household items.
Famous designer Khurshed Sattorov has spent over 20 years of his life to create national motifs and revive ancient Tajik costumes, namely, chakan. He was one of the first designers who contributed to the fashion week for Tajik designers and was the first one to open his Fashion House in Tajikistan in 2017.
Khurshed Sattorov was interested in producing pictures and designing of clothes since early childhood. Despite the fact that his family was against such hobbies, he created his first collection of clothes made of six dresses for the money saved from his scholarship.
Khurshed Sattorov was interested in producing pictures and designing of clothes since early childhood. Despite the fact that his family was against such hobbies, he created his first collection of clothes made of six dresses for the money saved from his scholarship.
Khurshed Sattorov. Photo taken from his personal page on Instagram
"These six articles of clothing were European ones, yet were decorated with Tajik national motifs. When I took to the stage, I was inspired by cheering and encouraging audience. That's when I realised that this profession was meant for me and I should be in it," Sattorov said.
He has worked over sewing patterns of the Tajik national clothes for 15 years and famous Tajik artists buy his collections. In his collections, he demonstrates mainly national clothing. In particular, he demonstrates the revival of the 100-year-long history of the chakan and special style of Tajik embroidery. According to him, his goal is to find and revive the ancient Tajik national motifs in a new shape.
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"If I am the member of this society and the child of this earth, I will contribute this folk art to the UNESCO, demonstrate it to the UN in New York City, and take part in all days of Tajikistan culture, which are held in other countries of the world, to introduce traditions of the Tajik national clothes
He has visited such ancient regions of Tajikistan as Badakhshan, where he found over 10 different kinds of clothes and embroidery, as well as Garm Karotegin, Khatlon, Hisar Zaravshan and other regions of the country to develop this art. He seeks ancient Tajik sewing patterns and reconstructs national costumes using them.
In 2018, when UNESCO put 'chakan' on the list of intangible cultural heritage, 20 units of ornaments by Khurshed Sattorov were delivered there.
In 2018, when UNESCO put 'chakan' on the list of intangible cultural heritage, 20 units of ornaments by Khurshed Sattorov were delivered there.
Author:
Farzona Umarali
Editors:
Gulafshon Sokieva
Natalia lee
Natalia lee
Layout:
Natalia Lee
© 2023